There's a well curated, meat-friendly wine list from super-somm Franck Moreau, but the crowd is loving Pabst Blue Ribbon beer ($9) and Cravada slushies of cahacha, coconut water and mint ($18) that look like green smoothies but act like cocktails.Įmpanadas ($12) are majorly big the crusty pasty fortress-thick, and the filling cheesy with raclette and wild greens. Match it with a tangy Vietnamese slaw ($8), dressed without mayo so it's totally refreshing and curly fries ($9), which are fun to eat in the same way that anything flavourless but crisp and deep-fried is fun to eat. Best of the lot, then, is the unsauced brisket, which can also be ordered separately by the slab. The meat has that deep, soulful tenderness from low, slow cooking, although much of it is slathered with a full-on barbecue sauce that, for me, makes everything it touches taste similarly sweet. It has the lot - sticky smoked pork ribs, pale swathes of juicy/fatty maple and black-pepper pork belly, a pile of chopped pork, and some hauntingly aromatic Rangers Valley smoked brisket, as well as half a dozen soft, seedy, pull-apart bread rolls and a big bowl of perky house-made pickles. You need three to four protein-dependent people with high carb thresholds to do justice to the Papi Chulo BBQ platter ($86). Photo: Edwina Picklesīut do not come alone, or even in pairs. Go-to dish: Papi Chulo BBQ Platter for 2 to 4 people, $86. Here, owner Justin Hemmes has raided his own kitchens for a hot boy team of Ms.G's head chef, Patrick Friesen, and El Loco's Christopher Hogarth, working with wonderboy Dan Hong as executive chef. In Latin America, papi chulo is what the girls who watch the boys who watch the girls go by, call the hottest boys. Good smells hook you by the nostrils within metres of the two American-style smokers, the broad wood-fired grill and the Brazilian charcoal rotisserie in the big open kitchen. It's a barrel of fun a veritable circus of smoky, deep-south barbecue, South American spice and tie-on bibs in a party-time setting that mashes up Brazilian cantina, New Orleans bar and Texan smokehouse. in the 1940s - seven miles from Sydney, a thousand miles from care. One of the hottest new restaurants of 20, having opened on New Year's Eve, it certainly lives up to the slogan devised for Manly by the Port Jackson & Manly Steamship Co. Tipped out on to Manly Pier 30 minutes later, at least a dozen passengers head straight for the door of the Merivale Group's new blockbuster.
It's only a matter of time before they rebrand the 6.30pm Manly Ferry out of Circular Quay, the Papi Chulo service.
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